This article was published in South Africa's Management Today E-Magazine in August 2011.
A Woman’s Journey Through North Africa
Christy Henchie, from African Hoofprints, has spent the last 5 years traveling
on horseback through North Africa with her partner Billy Brenchley. She tells of
her experience as a woman, traveling through culturally-conservative Africa.
Dare I admit that the main reason I started this horseback
journey from the most northern point to the most southern point of Africa, was
not my lifelong love of horses or my desire to see more of the world but the
thought that if I didn’t go, I would never see him again. Him being Billy,
boyfriend for the last six years and avid horseman and adventurer! On embarking
on the journey at the end of 2005 in Tunisia, I thought little more about the
trip other than, this should be fun… and I haven’t let this one get away! I had
no idea of the lessons I would learn, the amazing experiences I would have and
the inner strength I would discover.
On arrival in Libya |
The first lesson I had to learn, and admittedly one that
after all this time I am still trying to get to grips with, was to accept that,
as a woman, my journey would be completely different to Billy’s even though we
are in the same places, seeing the same things and talking to the same people
all at the same time!
Spending years in North Africa gave us a chance to learn
about the Arabic people, their cultures and traditions and of course Islam,
their religion, which dictates a moral way of life. It was refreshing to
realize that the portrayal by the West of the Muslim people as terrorists and
fundamentalists is so far away from the truth as to be purely fictional. It did
not take us long to fall in love with these people, their kindness and
embarrassing generosity and to feel completely at home with them. We were
treated as kings while at the same time invited to be part of the family. I
found it difficult at times to get my head around some Islamic beliefs and do
feel that to a certain extent it is an out-dated religion, but it does teach
people good morals in an age where they are sorely needed.
Sexism is rife in these countries. At first I thought it was
a Muslim thing but having since traveled through Southern Sudan and Uganda
which are Christian countries and seen it there too, I have come to realize it
is an African thing. It is not really religious at all but due to tradition and
a lack of sophistication. Africa is simply behind the times! Billy left me to
my own devices and did not protect me from these male chauvinists! I soon had
to learn how to garner respect for myself even though I am but a mere woman!
Some fellow South Africans we bumped into in Southern Sudan |
In Tunisia, even though I spent hours on horseback and
covered about 50km per day, most men we stayed with would remove my horse from
me as soon as I dismounted with the belief that I had no idea how to look after
him. I am actually a very shy person. The routine of feeding, watering and
caring for the horses was my comfort zone and helped me to relax at new places.
I always felt agitated when these responsibilities were taken from me.
Normally, I won’t even let Billy care for his own horse!
In Libya I learned about men being allowed to have as many as
4 wives which made me so emotional that I felt sick! I discovered that most of
these women had arranged marriages and thought it strange that I wish to marry
for love! A man informed me that one man is equal to two women. This left me
completely speechless! It did not take me long to realize that he was not the
only one who believed this. At most Libyan homes, Billy would be taken to the
men’s lounge where a translator was generally provided. I would be ushered into
the house to face 3 or 4 generations of women who soon gave up trying to have a
conversation with me and took to dressing me in traditional gear instead!
Christy in traditional Libyan attire with Billy |
In Egypt, men seemed to undress me with their eyes
everywhere I went. They seem to believe that all women from the West are porn
stars and are up for anything. I, being blonde and blue eyed, was viewed as
fair game even though it was obvious I was attached!
In Sudan, both the men and women thought it funny that I
would take care of the horses and Billy would do the laundry and make the tea!
After 6 years on the road, I have learned to deal with
ablutions in the bush. It still irritates me no end how much simpler it is for
Billy. It is the difference between standing and squatting, merely opening a
zip or getting half undressed. At times I have wished I was born a man, purely
for the mechanics of performing ones ablutions! Traveling through Uganda, however,
presented new challenges. Very few people in northern Uganda have ever seen a
horse, or a foreigner, or a tent, and they are a very curious people. Within
seconds of us stopping anywhere we are surrounded by hundreds of onlookers,
wide eyed in wonder at this strange phenomenon. It is lovely to meet all these
people and to cause such excitement but where do you go for a wee?!
Billy is welcomed in Kampala! |
These are but a few of the challenges I have met but they
pale in comparison to lack of food or water, injuries to the horses, the
typhoid and malaria that Billy got in Southern Sudan or the leukemia he is
fighting now. Both the trials and triumphs of this expedition have taught me
patience, perseverance and appreciation of the small things in life – a perfect
sunset, smiling faces or a happy horse. It has given me faith in mankind and
confidence in my abilities. I have experienced the amazing people of this
continent in a way most people never will. This is the University of Life
and I wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Christy Henchie
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